Hatcher pass, it's a first.



     So I have never been skiing in hatche pass and therefore, despite the widespread lack of snow, I decided to fuel my addiction to skiing a little more.  Some buddies of mine were headed to hatcher pass and though the in-laws were in town I was able to get out, soul food.  Weather: clear, calm and bitterly cold as it has been for several weeks now: overall it was comfortable because I was prepared for the cold and had my layering system down.  I also added some new gear which definately helped: some Outdoor Research shell mittens and the Centrifuge jacket which is, I have found, the perfect skinning jacket for me.

     We got there at sunrise and skinned up lookers' right shoulder of Marmot, not all the way to the summit with the flag but the flat ridge a ways below it.  Conditions were as I had expected given the lack of snow: tracked, mildly windblown crust/slab in some areas.  We managed to find a few good pockets by our 2nd and 3rd runs.  What was the best is we were skiing and skinning in the sun all day, perfect given the short days this time of year and it eased the bite of the cold.

     Shwas a great way to spend the day and I think I would like to check it out when they get more snow.  The terrain doesn't seem as big as turngagain pass but it looks like a good variety and alternative.  I noticed that a lot of terrain is much closer to the road which means a shorter skin in and more energy/quicker turnover and lapping.  I will return I think but Turnagain is supposedly getting snow as I write this so my next day off I'll be heading there. 

     Merry Christmas and good turns to all.

    

The Notch

     So I got the dynafit FT radical bindings last year which do not have the pin to prevent the heelpiece from rotating the wrong way and cracking it, something they fixed for this years'.  Mine cracked but how it went the wrong way I have yet to figure out, my best guess is some squirrely skinning technique.   Fortunately it was covered under warranty so I spent some time sidelined while that was getting fixed.  Timing was decent as snow conditions were far less than impressive and the cross country ski trails were getting groomed so I diversified my skiing by hitting up the trails and resort.
     Binding: fixed.  So naturally we decided to head out with the usual crew and pups.  For whatever reason we elected to check out the Notch which is CPG's cat skiing terrain.  It is a longer skin in by either girdwood xc ski trails or the winner creek trail by the tram.  Either way it meets up with the CPG cat track.  Normally the cat track is groomed but this years' lack of snow left it untouched but for a snowmobile(that's right I'm from the midwest) track half way.  We followed that half way then started breaking trail which wasn't too bad until we neared the split where trees thin and one can go up to A-1 or the notch. 

     The snow was quite a bit deeper from there to the CPG hut and given the snowpack below treeline (no cohesion) it was like a pit of whipped cream.  The dogs were wallowing in it and making slow progress.  It was bitter cold so I volunteered to break trail to warm up.  After checking out the hut, eating some lunch and taking in the view (one of the best I would imagine) we attempted to go the top.

View from the CPG hut.

     Above the treeline the snowpack changed to slightly windblown slabs and/or a thicker cohesive layer resting on old surface hoar layer or further down the depth hoar.  We noticed wide-spread whoompfing, no shooting cracks though.  Between the whoompfing and some other worrisome snowpack observations we elected to turn around sooner without reaching the peak.  The snow was so deep we couldn't get enough speed on the low-angle terrain to ski anything worth-while.  It was a disappointing ski/skin out but a good day with clear, beautiful skies; good company; and time spent in the chugach on skis.

Seattle: the sunny snowmachine-less side

     So Monday a buddy(KC) of mine had just purchased skins allowing him to really venture in the backcountry.  I thought now would be a good time to break him in before the good snow comes, because it is coming.  Hopefully.  We headed to turnagain pass which is pretty much the best if not only option at this point in time.  Given the shallow snowpack snowmachines are not allowed in their typical area which leaves it wide open for skiing.  In addition, these slopes get the most sun relative to the non-motorized reacreation side of the pass this time of year.

     The inversion wasn't as noticable, but no new snow meant a solid and frosty skin track.  After anticipating more cold clear weather I was surprised when it was cloudy.  A speck of snow fell here and there. We made it up to the top of the ridge.  I had never skied the seattle creek side so we elected to do a run down Main Bowl from the skiers' left side.  KC seemed energetic and willing enough to climb out of there but I could see the fatigue setting in.  The run was pretty good but I did manage to deposit more P-tex on a band of rocks lurking un-noticably beneath the surface.  KC and I skinned up and out of the bowl with hopes of returning after more snow but before snowmachines.
     We then skinned along the seattle ridge to Warm-up bowl and skied a nice open face on the highway side.  On the ridge the snow had been slightly wind-affected but it was scattered and localized.  The slope was a bit tracked but had room for better lines than elsewhere down to the car.  We followed other tracks down through the alders with no bushwhacking needed, indeed an unexpected and welcome surprise.  KCs' legs were fried by this time which made it tougher for him to enjoy the patches of pow in the alders. 

     Down in the creek (highway side) while skinning back to the car the sun broke out over the valley for an instant.  Pure awesomeness. We noticed it has been so cold for so long the hoar frost was growing hoar frost.  As we were booting along the construction trail with my skis on my shoulder I, for a reason I still can't grasp, decided to lick the riser of my dynafit binding.  Yup, they are metal.  Fortunaley KC had some water and bailed me out but meanwhile many thoughts went through my head, such as the kid in "A Christmas Story" who licked the flagpole, how long it would be before I could taste again, why did I lick my binding?  Who knows.
     At the car I could tell KC was relieved to be done.  Overall it was great to get out.  I hope I didn't push him too hard and ruin his first experience.  I promised him the goods were yet to come with longer days, deeper snow, and stronger legs.

Seattle Ridge looks good.

     So today I wanted to ski again and I headed down to turnagain.  After hitting up Eddies twice this month I was not up for that trail again.  The alders were pretty thick leading up to pyramid; Tincan and Sunburst were tracked out.  I wanted to do the lookers right shoulder leading up to Wolverine but the access looked like a miserable bushwhack.  If anyone knows a route please tell me. 
     I started looking at the snowmachiners' side and noticed some tracks which gave me an idea.  This was appealing as there are no snowmachiners yet AND if I skied it I would have the pleasure of being in the sun all day: something to revel in this time of year.  So I parked at the construction access site to situate myself below the clearest way up.  There are still quite a few alder stands that need to be buried but there was a solid skin track already in place, easier on the Lucy as the deeper snow wears her out quick and I am too impatient to wait.
     Followed that up to Seattle Ridge.  I had never been so I took the opportunity to explore a few of the drop-in points to the drainage west of the ridge.  I was skeptical but it looks like there are some good runs in there once more snow comes.  I don't know what the snowmachiners will do to it though.  Maybe I could hitch a ride back up with one.  I feel like there could be a be an unspoken mutual avoidance between snowmachiners and those who earn their turns.
     I went south along the ridge to a high point and got some fresh tracks for awhile before options funneled me through the alders.  What a pleasantly sunny and clear day to be out.  However, I hit the creek bottom there and the cold hit me hard.  My face was bitter cold and the hoar frost grew like weeds.  It was frigid but peaceful.  I stayed warm enough to enjoy the short jaunt out.

     On the way home I was going to stop in Girdwood because I heard the skate skiing there was good but decided to hurry and make it to potters marsh so I could skate with the sun setting rather than in the shadows of Alyeska.  It was well worth it.  Another great day in Alaska.

Redeeming Eddies

     So today a buddy of mine and I headed to the only place with snow.  But the snow that is there is pleasant enough to make the trip for.  We went to Eddies as he had not been there and I was looking to redeem it from my last, rather unsuccessful trip. 

     We got an average start but were the first at the parking lot: surprising given that it was a beautifully clear/calm weekend day and the only place around with snow.  Surely more ski fanatics would be out.  I had not been up high on Eddies and my buddy had never been.  After skinning up lookers' right ridge a ways we noticed a skin track crossing and heading up the left ridge to the top.  We decided to go for it.  Up to that point snow conditions had shown no whoompfing/shooting cracks but the second we started traversing there was significant whoompfing and occasional shooting cracks.  We kept the terrain green and skinned to just above the west facing steeper slope.  So far consistent with the CNFAIC findings.

     After fueling up we skied on down.  We mostly skied on the top right-side-up layer of snow and didn't notice the weaker layers beneath until we got further down the mountain.  It was without incident but that whoompfing sound always makes my heart skip a beat, especially when it sinks down a few inches with me on it.
     Skies were clear, no wind, great views, swishy snow sounds, soft turns. Man, I love skiing.  Simple as that.  What a great way to spend the day. 

     We had the option to traverse back to Eddies south ridge to ski out but got greedy and continued down the middle further than we should have.  That lent itself to the classic session of chugach-alder-bashing.  After much sweating, under-the-breath foul language, and flailing about in snow covered alders we made it to the skin track and back down to the car without issue.  I didn't leave my boots at the TH this time.

Trail to Eddies

     So I went out to turnagain to ski some low-angle stuff as the avy reports were a bit sketchy for higher up and I was by myself.  Co-skiers said Eddies was skiing well and there was a nice trail through the woods so I thought I would check it out: the need to get out and ski was growing and my jewel glacier outing was not holding me over. 
     Loaded up with some dogs and got a good start.  Turns out there was a fresh 4-5" of fluff to enjoy.  I managed to find the trail and skinned through the woods.  Skies were generally clear but the lower Eddies was socked in.  I toured longer than I preferred but it was easy going and the woods were peaceful and snow covered, so I didn't mind.  The dogs were exercising themselves: bonus.  Mine is well-seasoned in backcountry skiing but the other two were noobs and didn't understand the concept of the single-file skin track.
     I broke off the trail and headed uphill,  the snow was looking great.  I did hear some whoompfing but didn't see/hear anything else.  I lost the skin track and was breaking trail, the dogs were not tolerating that well and I didn't feel like waiting so I stopped and dug a pit.  Snowpack was consistent with the CNFAIC reports.  I found 2 weak layers, one mid-pack the other at the snow-ground interface.  The later layer is where I got most of the action. 

     After eating/lounging I skied back and out to the car, saw who I believe was 'Erik the Viking'? skinning up, interesting story to come.  Packed up headed home.  Later that evening unpacking my car I noticed my boots were missing.  It occured to me I left them behind my jeep and drove off, lonely boots in the Eddies parking lot, panic set in.  My only hope by that time in the evening was that Erik had picked them up when he got back to the TH before anyone else.  The problem was I was guessing that he is who I saw and I had no way of getting a hold of him.  I texted ski-buddy-A who managed to get his info and thank goodness he saw them, picked them up, and chugach Ress lives to ski again this winter. 

Maybe hunting is not for me?

     So I waited in line at Alaska Dept. of Fish and Game to get my permit to hunt a bull in the Ship Creek drainage this fall.  I spent the night there, comfortably in my bivy, because I heard they only issue x permits and they run out.  Come door opening time there were way fewer people than permits.  Oh well. 
     Got the permit and headed out Friday of the opening weekend with some ski buddies.  So did everyone else.  We went from S. Fork Eagle River trialhead to the second pass back.  When we got to a good vantage point we could see about 6 groups of hunters scattered below us.  No bulls.  All cows.  If there was a bull, it would have 15 pairs of binos looking at it no doubt and everyone would be on it.  Ridiculous.
     We went out several other times as the season progressed and encountered fewer hunters.  We hunted the same areas, saw no bulls whatsoever but plenty of cows.  It may have been the late and sparse snow coverage or maybe it is just me.  The original plan was to wait until later in the season and ski in there to hunt and sled/pulk it out, hoping our backcountry travel skills would work to our advantage.  No snow = a no go. 

The season came and went.  No luck, but being in the chugach was great and worth it.

First ski of the season

So I was trying to hold out until a solid amount of snow had fallen but now that it is November it has been long enough:  for the first ski of the year, though much later than last year, we decided to head up to Jewel glacier in Girdwood.  None of us had skied it before but had all had enough info on it to give it a shot. 

The typical morning start of rallying before dawn with the dogs was a good reminder of what's to come.  We headed out from Crow Pass TH.  About 2-3 inches were on the ground, barely enough to carefully skin from there.  We were expecting clear skies but it was overcast with comfortable temps.  We conveniently left our maps at home so were going by memory.  Fortunately we were able to make it to the base of the glacier, but not after crossing a talus field and turning our skis into genuine rock skis (we found the good skin track on the way back down).

              




Snow conditions were great: approximately 8 inches of freshness with fewer tracks that we expected given the lack of snowfall so far.  We skinned up to check it out.  By then a fog had moved in and visibility was poor and lighting was flat.   After lunch at the top we waited for a gap in the fog and cautiously did our first run as the location was new to us and the moment of clarity didn't last long. 
We elected to do another lap which was better than the first. 

We threw the skis on the packs for the walk out: too many rocks and too thin of snow to ski it out.  I think this outing can hold me over until a better snowpack develops.

Goat hunting in Bird/Penguin

Northwest approach to ridge north of penguin

      So I drew a permit to hunt goats in the Bird/Penguin area this fall.  Between the nasty weather and work, I was only able to make it out 4 times.  The first day out I went out to the northwest approach to the ridge north of penguin.  It had snowed which made the climb less than pleasant and we ended up alderbashing a fair amount.  The views from the top were worth it and it got me thinking about the winter/ski season to come.  No goats in sight, or at least none that I could see with the snow.

     The second day out I went up bird ridge and hiked it a ways back.  Some snow remained, but mostly on the ridge itself.  It was a beautiful day with perfect weather.  We saw no goats but did see a young black bear wandering about.



Bird valley viewed from the ridge.

     The third day I went up to penguin ridge.  Bird valley was socked in but the clouds cleared around 2500' to bluebird skies which made the climb worth it.  I saw a much larger black bear on the highway side of the just above the gut of the gully.  No goats nearby but I saw some further back on the ridge of my first day out.  I scoped a decent approach and would head out there soon.

     The fourth day out I headed up penguin creek trail and shot up a climb-able gully.  Once out of the trees I could see the goats were still there.  After cresting the ridge, eating, resting, spotting, and enjoying the view I earned, I figured out at least one billy.  I finally saw a bunch of goats, but unfortunately they were all nannies with kids.  Eventually they decided not to hang around and left for terrain I could handle, but not before crossing terrain that was too dicey.  I noticed two other goats on much steeper terrain further away.  The one billy I was after joined the nannies and kids.  They were beautiful to watch while I could, but I couldn't follow them. 

     After being unsuccessful and giving it an honest try I don't think hunting goats is for me.  I hated alder-bashing with a gun, not to mention the extra weight.  I loved the views, wildlife, and hiking though.  If there's a next time I will try to get off work for an extended period that will allow for greater travel    in the backcountry.  

The Alyeska Climbathon

     So the Alyeska Climbathon was two Saturdays ago but will serve as my first blog post.  The event is a competition lasting 10 hours during which one climbs "the north face" hiking trail as many times as possible.  The trail is about 2 miles long with approx. 2000ft of elevation gain.  It starts at the tram base and ends at the roundhouse.  At the top there is the tally board and aid station.  Competitors would then ride the tram down and begin their subsequent laps.
     The day started out cool and the rest of the day the weather was perfect: mostly sunny with mild temps.  The trail was in fairly good condition with just a bit of muddiness half way up.  I didn't see too many people I knew but the vibe was more relaxed than I anticipated. 
     My goal was to run most of the first 3-4 laps and see how it goes from there.  A few weeks earlier I had run 2 laps without issue and felt I could do more without going overboard.  Things went as planned.  I would run most of the lap but speed-hike the steep stuff above my threshold.  At the top I would grab some food and water and get on the next tram down.  My mental wall was much earlier than I expected, at lap 4, but after that the remaining 6 were much easier.  My overall goal was 10 laps which I managed to do in 9.25hrs or so.  There is no credit for partial laps and my lap times were in the low 50s at that point.  Tack on a tram ride and there was no way I could negative-split it for an 11th so I called it a day.  Maybe next year. 

    I would recommend this event to anyone up for a challenge.  Really you could do this any day the tram is operating, but the organized event provided much needed motivational fuel.  The event staff were great, very enthusiastic and encouraging, a good vibe.  Aid stations were well-stocked, patrol was on the hill, fellow competitors provided company and motivation. 

http://blog.alyeskaresort.com/mountain-news/2012-alyeska-climbathon/